Decreasing POA Distance

Frank Lawler

New member
My point on distance is 44 meters with a 32# recurve, 27" draw length, and skinny, full length carbon arrows, the tips of which extend roughly 1 1/2" in front of my riser. At my usual shooting distance of 20-25 yds, the gap is so large that I see the tip of the arrow about 3 feet below the bullseye, which is not very helpful. I anchor split-finger, middle finger to corner-of-mouth. Have tried a higher anchor point, as well as 3-under, but neither is as comfortable or consistent for me. Is there some change I might make to my arrows so as to significantly decrease my point on distance and thereby decrease gap size at close distances? Thanks.
 

Stash

New member
Make the arrow as heavy as possible. Aluminum, heavy point, extra long, and try the 3-under again.
 

mrtufty

New member
Hi Frank,

with 34# and plat plus 28" 1913 and 1916 I've had to string walk an inch or so down the string to get point on at 20yds.
from memory with three fingers just under and index finger to corner of mouth my PoA was still under the boss with a portsmouth target in the middle of the boss...
 

Frank Lawler

New member
Make the arrow as heavy as possible. Aluminum, heavy point, extra long, and try the 3-under again.
I took your advice and got some 1916 aluminum arrows, 29 1/2" from tip to nock groove, and today I was definitely more accurate than with my skinny carbon arrows. I wonder if the spine is right, however, or if there is some fletch interference, for at 10 ft these arrows hit nock left, at 20 ft nock right (I'm RH), but by 35 ft they stick in straight. Is there some adjustment I should make?
 

Frank Lawler

New member
Hi Frank,

with 34# and plat plus 28" 1913 and 1916 I've had to string walk an inch or so down the string to get point on at 20yds.
from memory with three fingers just under and index finger to corner of mouth my PoA was still under the boss with a portsmouth target in the middle of the boss...
If they were 29" instead would that have helped?
 

Easily Confused

New member
I took your advice and got some 1916 aluminum arrows, 29 1/2" from tip to nock groove, and today I was definitely more accurate than with my skinny carbon arrows. I wonder if the spine is right, however, or if there is some fletch interference, for at 10 ft these arrows hit nock left, at 20 ft nock right (I'm RH), but by 35 ft they stick in straight. Is there some adjustment I should make?
Have you tried bare shaft tuning? that would probably give a better indication of whether the shafts will be suitable.

I regularly shoot with two GMB barebow archer, both of whom hold national records. Their approach is to go 3 fingers under the nock and then string-walk down so that the is point on the gold at 20yds. Increasing distance they reduce stringwalk, then go split finger, then change back to 3 under and anchor under the chin. Using this method they can always have the arrow on the boss at every distance from 5m to 100yds. It may not feel comfortable now, but depending on the level you wish to shoot at it might be worth giving it another try in the long run.
 

Frank Lawler

New member
Have you tried bare shaft tuning? that would probably give a better indication of whether the shafts will be suitable.

I regularly shoot with two GMB barebow archer, both of whom hold national records. Their approach is to go 3 fingers under the nock and then string-walk down so that the is point on the gold at 20yds. Increasing distance they reduce stringwalk, then go split finger, then change back to 3 under and anchor under the chin. Using this method they can always have the arrow on the boss at every distance from 5m to 100yds. It may not feel comfortable now, but depending on the level you wish to shoot at it might be worth giving it another try in the long run.
Must admit that I've never enjoyed the feel of shooting three under, whereas split-finger is fun for me. Tried it again yesterday, and immediately noticed that the feathers got in the way of my nose. One of my anchor point references is middle finger to corner of mouth, so my arrow is at least somewhat close to my eye shooting split-finger.
Regarding stringwalking, although it is not for me, it is an interesting technique (Masters of the Barebow Vol. II) and certainly one of proven effectiveness, as you point out. I'm simply reluctant to give up the smooth, quiet feel of my bow shot split style.
Bare shaft tuning seems to be what I need, which leads to another question: after it's done, will it be possible to reattach feathers to the shaft with a twist?
 
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