Yehhh... there is definitely a trend to shoot with heavier and heavier piles outdoors these days, often beyond the manufacturer recommended weight.My mate shoot the 140gr tungsten on X10 with 1330+ on fita... So?
You wouldn't happen to know how far up that difference in diameter extends on your arrows, and how "nearly used up" manifests itself? 0.17mm lost corresponds to 1-2 spines weaker at the tip going by the ACC numbers, though it would need considerable length to be enough to affect groupings I suppose. For my 620 ACEs, I have 0.12mm difference at the tip between almost new and 8 year old shafts, the difference decreases linearly until 15cm from the tip, aftwer which they're equal. In terms of volume lost it's about 1.5grains and maybe 10% of a spine number, so about 1cm bareshaft difference at 70m which far too small for me to notice.I’m just regurgitating so things might have moved on:
Personally I think the heavy point is a fad. I don’t see any performance benefit in wind drift.
- the x10 was designed to be shot with 100gr (90 to 110 was the design range.
- the 380 was the stiffest shaft at the time
- the heavy point was intended mainly for compound use and was a reaction to market demand
- *all* the Koreans shoot 100gr (may not be true anymore)
- A lot of top recurve shooters who tested 140 went back to what they shot before.
- Point weight on an x10 has much less effect than most other target arrows (sorry I had this explained but my ballistics is not up to the explanation)
But on the subject of arrow wear here is what a set of shootable but nearly used up x10s look like and these shoot OK
View attachment 8080
Here is how much they have worn... new 410 at the same shaft location:
View attachment 8081
Heavily used x10
View attachment 8082
And here are some generations of steel x10 points (two 110gr and one 100gr)
View attachment 8083
MK1 point at the bottom, current 110SS at the top.
Your arrows should not be breaking. You have a problem. It is not tuning or form.
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What material is your plunger, and is there wear visible on the tip? Where is the wear and how long does it extend? Is it noticeably flatter? What do you see/feel that tells you it's worn there? Something's off - either the force of the arrow on the button is very high, the shaft has abrasive material on it, or the plunger is too abrasive. Or the wear you see is caused by something else.I did a close inspection on my last arrows, they are good and straight, the only noticeable wearing is where they touch the plunger, I can feel it with the finger.
So let's see, if the weather is kind, to test them with the 100g point. Because today we had a snow storm and the indoor range is close from today
Is 10 cm long +/- 1mm wide, 5cm after the point, I assume is the contact area with the plunger.What material is your plunger, and is there wear visible on the tip? Where is the wear and how long does it extend? Is it noticeably flatter? What do you see/feel that tells you it's worn there? Something's off - either the force of the arrow on the button is very high, the shaft has abrasive material on it, or the plunger is too abrasive. Or the wear you see is caused by something else.
Noticeable difference is within the first 10cm of shaft. Worst is maybe the 5-10 mm after the point which actually dips to 4.53mm. Basically the bit that gets scrubbed by a straw boss when the arrow is initially being stopped.You wouldn't happen to know how far up that difference in diameter extends on your arrows, and how "nearly used up" manifests itself? 0.17mm lost corresponds to 1-2 spines weaker at the tip going by the ACC numbers, though it would need considerable length to be enough to affect groupings I suppose. For my 620 ACEs, I have 0.12mm difference at the tip between almost new and 8 year old shafts, the difference decreases linearly until 15cm from the tip, aftwer which they're equal. In terms of volume lost it's about 1.5grains and maybe 10% of a spine number, so about 1cm bareshaft difference at 70m which far too small for me to notice.
Agreed, I have never seen them break like this, that is why I think something else is up. Mind you, when I shot steel points they were 90-110 and I shot them at 100gr. So I have never shot with a shank this long.SNIP ...
I have cracked x10's shooting into straw targets with stainless points though, the shank is too long for hard targets and magnifies the forces into the shaft, causing it to crack... I have never seen one break like yours have though.
If you are averaging 325 at 70m you do not have a tuning problem sufficiently bad to damage an arrow.Is 10 cm long +/- 1mm wide, 5cm after the point, I assume is the contact area with the plunger.
I have tested also if where a contact with the rest, but no extra contact was detected.
You can see it looking sideway to a source of light, I can barely feel it.
I'm using beiter plunger, medium spring at half setting, black insert.
Yes, I'd tentatively suggest you are getting a very consistent whack from an over stiff arrow (particularly with a light point) which is causing a weakness resulting in eventual breakage.At those specs you should be T10 which is a 410. I can believe that you might get a 380 to tune as you’re borderline weight group... but not tune weak. Unless you’re shooting some crazy ass hyper-recurve in which case all bets are off.
I shot a 32.25” including point 410 with 47# all be it with a 90s efficiency level Hoyt Carbon Plus limb. And they always tuned on the stiff side.
At the moment I shoot a 450 at 32.25” with a tungsten point (inclusive) off Velos at just under 40# and it is way stiff. Maybe 15cm at 18m with a soft button. (Hopefully I’ll get my big boy limbs back soon but my elbow is old and wrecked)
Another 2p
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