I also purchased one a few months ago. fairly happy with it, but a few gripes.
for starters, there are too many crosshead screws. it's not expensive to use far more durable hex head screws. also, the screws on the bottom of the "tailstock" assembly were loose, and the ones that hold the depth stop and plinth in place were loose to the point where the whole block was quite misaligned. it was only a few minutes work to loctite everything in place properly aligned, but come on, guys.
more seriously, I have no idea how you're supposed to change the blade out. the chinglish instructions show putting a pin into the back blade mandrel plate to prevent it moving while removing the nut... but there is no hole! there's a couple of opposing set screw holes that are there to lock the mandrel plate to the motor shaft, but you sure can't get a pin into them.
I managed to wrestle the thing apart, and promptly disassembled everything so I could drill a cross pin hole into the minor boss of the mandrel plate. it's aluminium so hand tools are quite sufficient with appropriate care. I then sacrificed an old screwdriver with a 4mm shank to make a locking tool, and future maintenance will be easy.
I also bought a steel ruler and glued it down to the baseplate as a depth indicator as the sticky label version was uselessly inaccurate.
in use, the saw is fairly quiet and nicely vibration free. the depth stop adjusts easily. it cuts arrows as nicely as anything you'd want, and the foot pedal works OK, although feeling a little cheap.
it's not the quality of the better
Easton Pro saw, but it appears very similar to the cheaper
Easton saw save for the vacuum extra facility, and at half the price it's a good tool for the occasional user who doesn't have access to a club saw and wants to do their own work. just be prepared to do a little work out of the box to get it up to scratch.