Forgive my ignorance, this is the first string that I've ever need a bowyers knot and that piece of advice has gone to totally over my head!Also, make sure you have the lay of the string the same way on the loop, if not, it'll be like a centre serving served against the twist and will fail!
There's some information on the Bowyers Knot in the following publication that you might find useful:Forgive my ignorance, this is the first string that I've ever need a bowyers knot and that piece of advice has gone to totally over my head!
Incidentally a friend on the line yesterday was insisting that this is a timber hitch. I know its also called that but which came first?
According to wiki - "The timber hitch is an old knot. It is first known to have been mentioned in a nautical source circa 1625[4] and illustrated in 1762."
That would suggest that it was first known as a bowyers knot.
And wreck arms....ouch!Yes Laurie ,you are new to this!!A properly tied bowyers/timber hitch will not slip and allows adjustment for string stretch, unlike a bowline. Nobody uses a crimped nock point, they are used initially to get the correct nock point and then a dental floss nock point is whipped on the string. Brass nock sets wreck tabs!
Indeed I am new, which is what I said? Thank you re the bowyers knot (which is basically a bowline). It seems many out there are finding (for what ever reason) it is slipping. Indeed a bowline (under load) should not slip, that is why it was developed, and yet off load is easy to adjust. Just like a bowyers knot indeed! Re the knocking point...why then are so many talking about it, and so many bows have them? Perhaps it would be less of a generalisation that maybe they should not? have a brass knocking point, if that is the consensus: not that they don't, as evidently they do!:cheerful: As a matter of interest, how would brass knocking points wreck tabs, as all recurvers (sorry...most!!) use both???? I've never heard mention of this in recurve archery? I'm quite new to that too .........Yes Laurie ,you are new to this!!A properly tied bowyers/timber hitch will not slip and allows adjustment for string stretch, unlike a bowline. Nobody uses a crimped nock point, they are used initially to get the correct nock point and then a dental floss nock point is whipped on the string. Brass nock sets wreck tabs!
I think you'll find that the most common advice given regarding brass nocksets (for any discipline) is to take them off and put a proper nocking point on...Indeed I am new, which is what I said? Thank you re the bowyers knot (which is basically a bowline). It seems many out there are finding (for what ever reason) it is slipping. Indeed a bowline (under load) should not slip, that is why it was developed, and yet off load is easy to adjust. Just like a bowyers knot indeed! Re the knocking point...why then are so many talking about it, and so many bows have them? Perhaps it would be less of a generalisation that maybe they should not? have a brass knocking point, if that is the consensus: not that they don't, as evidently they do!:cheerful: As a matter of interest, how would brass knocking points wreck tabs, as all recurvers (sorry...most!!) use both???? I've never heard mention of this in recurve archery? I'm quite new to that too .........
Pah - I just use the worn patch of the serving as MY nocking point - beat that for low profile!My tab was scored by brass nocks. I use tied waxed cotton nocking points now. In fact, this weekend gone I reduced them to a single layer of thread as an experiment. Extra low profile now.