cost affective 1716 arrows?

Sunbeam

Member
Hello Guys,

This is my first 'proper' post after my introduction :)

I am very new to archery and highly expect to be shooting 3D hunting archery.
I can group fairly OK at 25 yards already, so off to a reasonable start.
I have a Ragim Wildcat 28# for now but also have a much nicer looking Black Hunter 30# (lowest # they make in this bow) on it's way.
All my kit is new and I was fully set up by Welsh Archery Specialist.
I've been 'coached' by a few people so far on my travels about the place, not least by some people at my own Rifle target club, so I have some sort of idea of what I should be doing and 'form' :)

I am booked into one local 3D club this Saturday and the other in my area a week Saturday, see what they are all about and what one I like best :)

My question if I may?

I have a set of 8 1716 Jazz arrows right now and they seem to be well matched to me and my 28# bow. The Black Hunter is 30# and all the charts I've seen suggest the 1716 will be fine. I have a draw of 28" as it happens, so everything looks OK to use the 1716 on the new bow coming. I have just bought a hanging scale, so will be checking draw weights at 28" very soon.

As a beginner doing 3D hunting, is there a cheaper, but still good quality arrow I can buy to bulk up my arrow stock rather than the reasonably expensive 1716 Jazz?

Many thanks, and sorry for the long winded question (just trying to cover all the facts).

Thanks
Rob.
 

Timid Toad

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Hmm. When you say 3D Hunting you don't mean hunting? You'll be shooting at life size rubber animals with score zones marked on them? (You'll know hunting of any living creature with a bow isn't legal in the UK - not wanting to teach my granny to suck eggs, sorry)
Now Jazz really are pretty cheap arrows in the scheme of things. If you go online and take a look at what's available you'll see you could end up spending ?500 on a dozen. Aluminium arrows are at least straightenable in most cases when they get a bend. You might find them cheaper than a local shop if you look online. A lot of field archers use carbon arrows. They are robust and won't take a bend, but if you do hit them off something hard they can break and be unusable. For now I would stick with the Jazz while you get a feel for things, see what others are shooting at the club you chose and take their recommendations for where to get them from.
 

Sunbeam

Member
Thank you Timd Toad,

You are correct in saying full size rubber animals :)

I fully understand hunting for live animals is totally illegal in the UK with a bow or crossbow. I'm also familiar with the law on hunting with a fire arm and air weapons. Don't worry, I'm not a total beginner in such matters.

I was told I need more than the 8 arrows I have for 3D. If the Jazz are OK for now as a beginner, should I grab another 8 (16 in total) for now so I've got a fist full of 'cheap' arrows for now. Or should I stick with the 8 I have and go semi empty handed for the first shoot?

If the Jazz are as low as I want to go, thats fine as I've found a place that sells them a little cheaper than where I bought them.

Thanks.
 

Sunbeam

Member
I just rang my local archery shop where I bought my first 8 Jazz arrows.

I told them I'd like another 8 arrows made and they would be used by me on my 28# bow the same as the last set, but this time I have a new 30# coming and want to use them on that as well.

They said that two bows of the same type (different brand), at the same poundage with the same archer will not necessarily work with the same arrow.

Is this right?

Thanks.

Note, My new hanging scale says my Ragim bow is actually 30# at 28" draw, not the 28# that is written on the limb. The new Black Hunter that is in the post is also marked up and sold as 30#.
 

LAC Mark

Active member
They said that two bows of the same type (different brand), at the same poundage with the same archer will not necessarily work with the same arrow.

Is this right?
Yes. Not all bows are equal, the speed of two sets of limbs can vary greatly, each transferring a different amount of energy into the arrow.
This is why the arrow spine charts are only a guide
 

Timid Toad

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Yes, they are correct. Heavier the poundage, the stiffer the arrow you'll need, but there is variability based on style, bow quality, the archer etc. You can try your existing arrows, and see how they perform.
Bows are marked up as an approximation - so a bow that is actually 29lbs might be marked at 28 or 30lbs, depending on the manufacturer's convention. Remember 28" is measured to the throat of the grip plus 1.75".
Your scale may not be as accurate as it claims. You need to test it against a known weight (in the 26-32lbs or so area). Spring scales are notoriously inaccurate. Once you work out how far out yours is, you'll be able to go from there.
 

Sunbeam

Member
Thank you guys, I'll hold back and stick with the arrows I have for now.
I got two 3D clubs to visit over the next two weekends.
My new Black Hunter bow should be here in a few weeks (slow free post from Mandarin Duck)

Thanks,
Rob.
 

Sunbeam

Member
I'm new to archery, I bought all my equipment new last week from Welsh Archery Specialists in South Wales. The arrows came straight out of their arrow selection stand brand new.
 

jonUK76

Member
For what it's worth the cheapest "proper" arrows I've bought (excluding unspined fibre glass arrows which I'd avoid) were Easton Blues which I bought from Bowsports. At the time, I think they were only around ?2 a shaft... They are basically the same as the Jazz, maybe with slightly worse tolerances, but they are not made any more so were "new old" stock. It's also possible to find Avalon Classic carbon arrows cheaply at the moment, approx ?25 for dozen bare shafts from Alternative, or you can also buy them as complete arrows.
 

Sunbeam

Member
Thank you for help.

It seems The best thing to do is use what I have until the Black Hunter gets to my door, and then get fitted up with some good quality carbon arrows for the BH? I'm hoping the BH will be 'my bow' for quite a while, so would probably be worth spending proper arrow money on that? I am of coarse assuming that the BH is better (smoother and ultimately more accurate) than my Ragim Wildcat????
 

Timid Toad

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Thank you for help.

It seems The best thing to do is use what I have until the Black Hunter gets to my door, and then get fitted up with some good quality carbon arrows for the BH? I'm hoping the BH will be 'my bow' for quite a while, so would probably be worth spending proper arrow money on that? I am of coarse assuming that the BH is better (smoother and ultimately more accurate) than my Ragim Wildcat????
Definitely wait until you've been to both clubs and got your new bow. Whether you get on better with the new or the older bow really depends on so many things. The more you shoot the better you'll get and the more you'll develop form and an idea of what you want from your archery.
 
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