Dumb Traditional Arrow Questions

I'm about to start making my own wooden arrows which I'm doing partly because I need some new arrows and partly because I like the idea of making some arrows ;)

However I have a few questions which may be pretty dumb but which I can't really find an answer for so hoping that people here will be able to fill in the missing blanks.

1. I want my arrows to measure 30.5" from the throat of the nock to the base of the point (where it meets the shaft) and I'll be using tapered points and nocks. How do I account for the taper in my measurements so that I cut the arrows to the right length?

2. Dipping. I know dipping is to seal the wood so that moisture doesn't get in and spoil the arrow, but what I don't know/understand is why dip as opposed to applying varnish/oil/stain with a brush? I understand that dipping is messier but is the finish better?

3. What 'dip' do people recommend for a clear gloss finish?

4. Eventually I'd like to crest my arrows. What paints do people use for cresting and would you crest before or after dipping (assuming a clear lacquer is used)?
 

Black Sun

Member
Answers on a postcard:
1. Most 'standard' wooden arrow shafts are sold at 32" length. Once you've determined which is the top and bottom of the shaft , taper the appropriate end for the pile. Where the end of the taper begins is where the back of the pile will end up you can then measure your 30.5" from that point to the nock end, mark off the correct length and saw then taper the nock end.

2. Dipping is supposed to give a better finish than brushing but as with anything, your mileage may vary. Personally I use a linen cloth rather than a brush and apply varnish/oil/stain with that.... tends to give a smoother finish than brushes and isn't as wasteful as dipping.

3. Standard clear gloss or satin floor varnish thinned a little (about 4:1) with white spirit is what I use most of the time, sometimes use danish oil but honestly whatever works well for you

4. If I'm going to crest, I use standard artist liquid acrylics or artist acrylic inks (they have a high pigment density) and once dry seal them up with the topcoat of varnish. Cresting after applying varnish will only lead to your cresting deteriorating over time

Plenty of videos on youtube to watch which you might find of help. Enjoy!
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Trial and error.
Fit nock, taper point and push on point, measure... too long, trim off a little (it will be easy with a craft knife as it has been tapered) re-taper try again. Repeat until correct length.
Remove point, use this shaft as a measure to mark and cut the others.
Del
 

steve Morley

New member
Been building arrows for over 30 years. I never used a brush or dipped, I used my finger to apply a very thin layer 2-3 times, keeps the amount of varnish used down.

Ceder has a natural oil to the wood, it doesn't need much to seal it. Here nobody uses varnish because the fibreboard targets used bit stick to the shaft, they just use a colour seal CIMG3693.jpg
 

steve Morley

New member
Been building arrows for over 30 years. I never used a brush or dipped, I used my finger to apply a very thin layer 2-3 times, keeps the amount of varnish used down.

Ceder has a natural oil to the wood, it doesn't need much to seal it. Here nobody uses varnish because the fibreboard targets used bit stick to the shaft, they just use a colour seal View attachment 7549
 

Corax67

Well-known member
When I do arrows it's Del's method for length and use a really good quality 1/4" brush with thinned outdoor varnish - 3 or 4 coats rubbed down with fine wire wool between each allowing 48 hours drying per coat.

Having built a Lego cresting jig for a bit of fun I used what paint I had to hand, Games Workshop liquid acrylics, and they worked really, really well. Sealed the cresting with a final single coat of thinned varnish.





Karl
 
Very interesting and useful info. Much appreciated. As expected everyone has their preferred methods, I'm just trying to work out which method is most suitable for me.
 
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