[Horsebow] Nocking Points

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
Hi All,

A friend has recently bought a horsebow and was wondering whether the nocking points are set up the same as other bows (about 1/4" or 1/8" above flat) or whether it's set up differently.

For use with 3 finger draw and thumb draw would be useful please.
 

Riceburner

Active member
Hi All,

A friend has recently bought a horsebow and was wondering whether the nocking points are set up the same as other bows (about 1/4" or 1/8" above flat) or whether it's set up differently.

For use with 3 finger draw and thumb draw would be useful please.
What bow?
I assume it doesn't have a shelf of any sort so they'll be shooting off the hand?

Are they going to use a shooting glove? If they are, then the nock point can be pretty much the same as when shooting with a shelf.

If not, it's perfectly easy to lift the nocking point a touch so that the fletchings* clear the skin of the bowhand easily.

My nock point is (IIRC) 1 arrow nock's width above where it would be if the arrow was 'flat'. (if that makes sense!)

I get this position by suspending the bow so the string is horizontal, then suspending an arrow from the string (vertically) until it's laying against the bow at the desired arrow-pass-position. I then make the move the arrow 1 nock's width 'up' the string, and that's my nock point. :) Currently I'm using plastic nocks on my spruce shafts (not sure which nock tbh).

You do loose a little distance (the arrow will be higher on the string, thus pointing 'down' a bit more), but the speed of a horsebow tends to help regain it.

oh - for reference I shoot 1 over, 2 under, (Mediterranean?) and field draw (to the side of my face) rather than to under my chin.





* I'd NOT shoot with plastic vanes off the hand!
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
What bow?
I assume it doesn't have a shelf of any sort so they'll be shooting off the hand?

Are they going to use a shooting glove? If they are, then the nock point can be pretty much the same as when shooting with a shelf.

If not, it's perfectly easy to lift the nocking point a touch so that the fletchings* clear the skin of the bowhand easily.

My nock point is (IIRC) 1 arrow nock's width above where it would be if the arrow was 'flat'. (if that makes sense!)

I get this position by suspending the bow so the string is horizontal, then suspending an arrow from the string (vertically) until it's laying against the bow at the desired arrow-pass-position. I then make the move the arrow 1 nock's width 'up' the string, and that's my nock point. :) Currently I'm using plastic nocks on my spruce shafts (not sure which nock tbh).

You do loose a little distance (the arrow will be higher on the string, thus pointing 'down' a bit more), but the speed of a horsebow tends to help regain it.

oh - for reference I shoot 1 over, 2 under, (Mediterranean?) and field draw (to the side of my face) rather than to under my chin.





* I'd NOT shoot with plastic vanes off the hand!
No idea what bow, but no it doesn't have a shelf, shooting off the fingers (though might have a glove on dunno). But sounds like it's roughly like setting it up like other bow types.
 

Riceburner

Active member
No idea what bow, but no it doesn't have a shelf, shooting off the fingers (though might have a glove on dunno). But sounds like it's roughly like setting it up like other bow types.
Pretty much - you just need a little more clearance to lift the fletchings off the skin. Although fletchings will 'give' as they pass the skin (like tree branches in wind), if the nock point is too low you 'can' suffer cuts on the skin, especially if the fletching is starting to come unglued. I've seen people loose an arrow and the fletching ends up buried in the back of their hand - not nice.
 
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