securing nocks

ash

New member
i've already read threads about nocking material but i need a bit of advice about the best way to secure a nocking point and how to stop my nocking points from opening up my centre serving.

what i've tried:
dental floss too thin/small and takes too long to build up a nock (rule it out)
i've tried string material which i thought was a good idea but the nocks tend to push against it and open up the nock width and the nock point still slides up the string.
i've used serving thread (best option) for nock points and it's worked well but sometimes the nock opens up the centre serving and so causes the nock to slide.

how do you stop the nocking point from opening up the centre serving?

what's the best way to secure a nocking point?

i've been told super glue is bad as it can sink into the string and causes breakage
how good is nail varnish remover?
am i correct that some people rub wax onto the nock and then melt it in
 


jonUK76

Member
No expert but both my coach and World Archery's instruction video recommend using a small amount of superglue on tied on nock points. Whenever I've done it it's literally a tiny dab over the knots, probably not enough to go through to the bow string.

I've tried two tying methods using serving thread, and both work fine IMO. I've tried doing them like how you would put the serving on the string. This looks neat, and providing it's been done with enough tension, doesn't move easily, but I needed to do it a few times to get it right as it is quite tricky...

[video=youtube;_OKf54LuWQc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OKf54LuWQc[/video]

Also done the easier over and under knots method (as per the WA video, less the hot melt glue) which tends to end up in nock points that are a bit chunkier than the first type. With the serving thread I was using there was no need to do more than one layer.

If the serving is moving, I would have thought that would suggest a problem with the serving rather than the nock point, perhaps it is too loose?
 


ash

New member
thank you for your reply.

not all my nocking points come loose so perhaps i'm not tying under enough tension. i'm not sure how i would get my serving any tighter as i place my string under tension on the jig and then beiter wind on the serving as tight as i can. i suppose for peace of mind i will just have to add a small dab of glue.
 


KidCurry

Well-known member
It can depend on the string/serving/nock point materials you combine. Some combinations work better than others. BCY Fibres list their different materials on the serving page but at the bottom of the page they have a table of the best combinations...

BCY Fibers - Serving Material

Also, have you tried serving by hand. It doesn't take long and you can get very good tension that way. And have you tried 'Nock Point Thread' for the nock points. I use over/under knots and melt the last knot. No super glue or wax needed although a tiny dab of super glue won't hurt :) If you are recurve then I would serve the nock points. Good luck.
 


EVC

New member
If the serving is moving, I would have thought that would suggest a problem with the serving rather than the nock point, perhaps it is too loose?
My first thought too. Besides serving too loose, the string may have been twisted on the opposite way the serving was done which loosens it too; one care the archer must have is twisting the string on the same direction the serving was done, which further tightens it.

Nice video BTW.
 


Rik

Supporter
Supporter
When I used to tie on nocking points, I used sewing cotton and superglue. Just wrap enough cotton round to make a lump, then dab on some superglue and smear it around (being careful to not glue your fingers to the string) - no problem. Lasts well, and can be repaired with a tiny dab of superglue if it starts to unravel. The glue is on the surface of the cotton, rather than soaked through the entire string. Though probably better to not use a low viscosity glue...

If the centre serving is separating under the nocking point, then the problem is likely to be with the serving.
 


ash

New member
i think i better tell you what i'm doing with my centre serving then

string on the jig
top loop on my right and bottom on the left (looking towards the string)
(right handed archer)
when i put twists in the string i roll the string fowards which should be clockwise (and when i add twists i twist clockwise also)

serving:
i serve by spinning the serving tool forwards also which is in the same direction as the twists and should mean i'm serving clockwise also.
 


Rik

Supporter
Supporter
i think i better tell you what i'm doing with my centre serving then

string on the jig
top loop on my right and bottom on the left (looking towards the string)
(right handed archer)
when i put twists in the string i roll the string fowards which should be clockwise (and when i add twists i twist clockwise also)

serving:
i serve by spinning the serving tool forwards also which is in the same direction as the twists and should mean i'm serving clockwise also.
String on the jig? Centre serving is normally done on the bow... Might make a difference as it's unlikely to be stretched properly on a jig. String already twisted to length?
How tight is the serving tool?
 


ash

New member
String on the jig? Centre serving is normally done on the bow... Might make a difference as it's unlikely to be stretched properly on a jig. String already twisted to length?
How tight is the serving tool?
when making the string i add around 20-30 twists
then leave the string under tension on the jig over night (sometimes i leave it on the bow)

put the string on the bow and use the brace gauge to measure out the serving and then i remove the string and place it back onto the jig to apply the centre serving
i've tried doing the serving on the bow but i find it hard to serve with the bow moving about and i can only do it this way if i clamp the bow down.

when i serve the centre serving i put the string under a bit of tension to keep it rigid.
i use a beiter serving tool and place it as close to the string as possible and tighten the wheels so that i serve under tension (come to think i may not have tightened the beiter wheels enough in the past)
 


geoffretired

Supporter
Supporter
String on the bow puts a lot of tension into the string.It is one reason why stringing a bow can be a struggle for some.
Loose serving will separate in use. When you fit the nocking points onto the string, if they are too close together they will be forced apart by the arrow nock as you reach full draw. The higher the profile of the nocking point, the greater is the tendency to be pushed apart. With sewing thread or dental floss , there is no need to build up anything higher than a few wraps. All that is needed is enough to prevent the arrow nock from sliding past either one. A single wrap of serving thread is far bigger than necessary.
 


Corax67

Active member
I've served a few strings & always done the centre serving on the bow rather than on the jig because that's how I was taught, never occurred to me to do anything different. I also use the Beiter serving shifter tool to ensure the turns are all kept tightly aligned next to each other - haven't had one undo yet.

As for nocks I use dental floss with a tiny drop of superglue to ensure they stay tied. It takes a bit of practice but once you have the nack it is a quick and neat method. It's the method employed by most people at our club.




Karl
 


ash

New member
i have question about beiter nock points
Q are the two halfs supposed to touch each other when on the string because my 18 strand string is a little thick for my small beiter nocks and i've got apx 1mm gap between the two halfs. will the the serving pull the halfs together or do i need to go up a nock size?
 


Rik

Supporter
Supporter
i have question about beiter nock points
Q are the two halfs supposed to touch each other when on the string because my 18 strand string is a little thick for my small beiter nocks and i've got apx 1mm gap between the two halfs. will the the serving pull the halfs together or do i need to go up a nock size?
You may need to go up a size...
but before that, did you serve the string as tightly as you could first? The usual method is to serve the part the NP is going on to really tight first to shape the string, then unravel it and serve the NP into place. Sometimes it's just a part of tuning as you do some of that without fitting the Beiter NP, and have to serve the whole length anyway.
 


ash

New member
just done a test serve and i've got one side to clip together but the other side has a small gap. i've only served apx 1.5cm and then onto the nock point and i've pulled it as tight as i can but i cant get both sides to clip. can i get away with this small gap? the nock fits fine or is it just best to go up a size? next silly question do beiter nocks work fine on normal strings, i ask as it wobbles about weirdly on a normal string.
 


ash

New member
just fitted a larger beiter nocking point but i've still got about 1/4 mm gap on one side of the nock. i'm using 8125 18strand string homemade. i'm not sure how get both sides 100% flush, any ideas?
probably because of the gap in the nock but my nock fit is quite stiff and it takes a good smack on the string to get the arrow to drop off




any tips and advice
 


eljetico

Supporter
Supporter
Have you tried clamping/tying the halves together (with a granny knot) while you serve them on, X10Nano?

I gave up on the Beiter nocking points - quickly realised they were fragile, fiddly, unreliable and (in my experience) provided no measurable advantage whatsoever. Korean-style nocking points for the win. Far easier, rock solid, cheaper etc...
 


ash

New member
i've tried a simple cross tying method for the opposite nock to the one i'm serving but i couldn't get it tight enough. i'll try out the granny knot, thanks.

i have to admit now i've finished the nocking point i'm thinking that it would be better to just keep a simple serving/nock combo rather than risk the beiter nock failing. still i've got the nocks now so i'm going give them a try but i think i will revert back to normal nocks.
 


eljetico

Supporter
Supporter
Might have read that wrong, X10Nano, but don't ditch the nocks if they fit the served string without the NP! They work perfectly well without it.
 


ash

New member
i was thinking i might ditch the nockpoints after the trial period expires.
i like the nocks and the small ones fit my string perfectly with good tape release test. i might finally be able to try a 8190 20-24 strand string with the larger nocks:)
 


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