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Timid Toad

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Very sorry Dottorfoggy to have derailed your post. Perhaps we should try to move it to a new thread?
 
Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I've just taken delivery of my second Tempest riser, and a set of the new Hex 7.2 limbs.
I shoot all the time with my first Tempest, with Hex 6.6 limbs. Awesome bow, really happy, Border quality through and through.

I'm just embarking on setup with the new riser and limbs, and was intrigued by your comment, Sid, about the Lock Bolts in the riser having the potential to show a "false bottoming" of the limb bolt. Not sure how that happens, I've worked on the basis of backing off the lock bolts as far as possible to allow the limb bolts to go as far as possible into the riser, anticipating that there's a change in diameter at the bottom of the limb bolt thread that will register the "bottom".

How does the lock bolt interfere with this if fully backed off?
And, pardon the ignorance, could you just confirm that the 7.2 limbs have "built in tiller"?
I've been looking to set the tiller to a positive 4mm or so, when measured at the usual place at the top of the limb pockets.
If the limbs are "ready tillered", should I be looking for an equal measurement at top and bottom, and letting the "built in" tiller sort things out?

I think that the more of the Tempests that are made and sold, the greater the need for some sort of Set Up guide.
I don't know, John, if Sid Jnr has "Signed Off" your guide yet, but it'd be a saviour for those of us pondering the optimum setup.
String lengths and bracing heights have been hard to find, and the dissing permutations on the various threads on this forum only complicate the issue further.

Love the product, just need the Owners Manual!
 

Timid Toad

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Hi Riverrunner, I'm sure Sid will be along at some point...
In the mean time, a few things to consider: don't be fixed on the 4mm tiller. You need the tiller that's right for the bow. For me (Tempest=Hex7.5, 68") it's 3mm. This gives me an equal amount of string wrap on top and bottom limbs. And my limb bolts are not set equal. This can change enormously if I alter the bh a few mm, so be aware of that. Bear in mind Hex limbs work most efficiently at maximum out (which I think is 5 turns from fully in), and you'll gain less than a pound from full out to full in so this method is not great for tuning. The 10% rule does not apply here.

Have some fun messing about. It's a great learning process :cheerful:
 

JohnK

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Riverrunner - Ver 1.1 of the guide is still with Sid to approve. It's for the riser only, and doesn't discuss bracing heights for different limb types I'm afraid.

I'm hoping to look at documentation for Border ILF limbs next.
 
Thank you for your thoughts on my setup Mr Toad, and for the clarification on the manual John.
I do hope that Sid finds the time to give a little more information, I'm sure that it's all straightforward really, but the charts on the Border website give seemingly conflicting information re. brace heights and string length.

I read posts which talk of string lengths of 66" for a 68" bow, yet a string came with my Tempest/Hex 7.2's, and it's 66 3/4" long.
None of the tables indicate a length such as that, yet the bow braces at the height that I'm looking for.

An accurate guide would be really helpful for those of us who don't have a string jig, nor limitless supplies of Fast Flight.
As you say, Mr Toad, all part of the learning process.

Thanks again,

Andy
 

Timid Toad

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The string sounds about right - they now recommend a few extra twists to mitigate the newer ultra low stretch materials. When you get a new one made make sure it doesn't have a fibre with an X in it - they are really designed for compounds. 8125, Fastflight+ and Angel, Majesty and 777 amongst others are all ok. Effectively different forms of Dyneema.
 
I'm sticking exclusively with Fast Flight +, after a visit to Mellerstain, and Sid's recommendation.
14 strand works for me (apart from the centre serving getting loose a little quicker on the nocks!)

It's really this question on the lock bolts giving false bottom readings that's puzzling me, can't understand how a "backed off" lock bolt could interfere with the limb bolts finding their bottom setting.

Just a couple of other points to throw in the mix as random findings.

1. My Arten Olympic sight didn't work on the Tempest, as the vertical elevation bar fouls on the back button placement. May be the same for the Angel sight with the riser mounted elevation bar, but I haven't tried that. Ended up using a Shibuya sight which fits in the "normal" way.

2. It's a devil to attach wrist slings to the riser and get them to stay put, due to the curves. I ended up attaching an Easton "Stiffy" sling to the rear of the riser by using the threaded hole below the handle, and one of the brass weights as a retainer. Works perfectly!

Thanks again,

Andy.
 

Timid Toad

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I haven't found this issue with the lock bolts. But I have always just taken everything completely apart when I get a new (to me) riser to clean out threads etc. It's easy to work out numbers of turns etc from there.
I have a Spigarelly carbon 30 sight that fits perfectly. I can use either of the button placements, but tend to use the furthest one from me - plenty of clearance and less influence from my sometimes twitchy bow hand. I'd recommend using a finger sling rather than a wrist sling on all bows, regardless of fit. In my experience wrist slings are a starting point for no end of bad habits!
 
It's true!
The lock bolts can interfere with the limb bolts bottoming out.
Tried this today, and found that, when the lock bolt appears to have found its bottom location, a couple of turns on the lock bolt inwards allows the limb bolt to move further into the riser.
No idea how this is happening, but it does.

I think I'm a lost cause Mr Toad, used wrist slings for thirty years, since my Greenhorn GL2000 days (still got it!, the bow that is!)
Finger slings just don't work for me.
 
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