Very soft button requirement

mbaker74

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WAs helping one of the girls set up a new Shibua dx button today and came up with a bit of an issue.
She's an experienced shooter, doing 550 portsmouths. She is quite small, so shoots 40lb Hoyt limb she but only draws 32lb. She is currently shooting ACC's in1500 spine..

we checked centre shot and sight positioning, all fine. Started with the button at a stiff setting, arrows 2ft left on a Portsmouth.. I then kept backing off the tension until she was shooting central, which resulted in the button being so soft it is moving under the clicker pressure.
Has anyone expericed this before? Is it a case of moving centre shot out to enable the tension to be increased? I thought moving to the left would make the arrow impact left though?

I guess the other option is to move the sight pin out to the left and then increase tension to get the impacts central?
 

Timid Toad

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Ignore what the sight position is doing and bareshaft test until you are getting good groups. Then move the sight to bring the groups back on to gold.
 

geoffretired

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Was this a replacement button for an older one; or a first button having used a stick on rest like the Hoyt super pro? If it replaced an older button then set the new one to match and all should be well. If it replaced a stick on rest, perhaps the old centreshot was right of centre. I am assuming the arrows are the ones she shot before the new button was fitted.
I am guessing that she may have used the wrong eye to aim with if she is right handed.
 

jerryRTD

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If after the BS tune the clicker is still affecting the button use a magnetic clicker. Unlike the spring blade clicker , the more you move the magnetic clicker away from the riser the weaker the attraction gets. Where as the opposite happens with a blade clicker. the magnetic clicker puts very little side pressure on the arrow but still makes noise
 

Stretch

Well-known member
Probably arrows too weak and contact on the riser giving a false BS result.
That sounds right to me. Lots of missing info but she must be around a 25” draw if getting 32# that would suggest several spines stiffer needed.

Suggesting taking the exact measurements - weight and arrow length - and looking at the Easton arrow chart with a fresh set of eyes as a starting point.

Stretch
 

bimble

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That sounds right to me. Lots of missing info but she must be around a 25” draw if getting 32# that would suggest several spines stiffer needed.

Suggesting taking the exact measurements - weight and arrow length - and looking at the Easton arrow chart with a fresh set of eyes as a starting point.

Stretch
I'd agree... I'm on about 32lbs on the fingers, and drawing 26" and using 830 ACCs. 1500 spine is a big jump down.
 

mbaker74

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This issue is still bubbling on, but she has not shot for a few weeks due to not being well.....
Arrow length is 24", measured draw weight is 32lb. From the Easton arrow chart n the youth / low poundage section this puts her on the border of Y4/Y5 which gives 1500/1300 spine ACC's.....
Going to the full Easton chart gives 02/03 group, or 1300/1150 spine ACC's.....
 

olis

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That is a short arrow for 32lb draw off 40lb limbs. Is the clicker right next to the button? If so then That might be part of the problem; is the button in the rear hole? If not it should be for a short arrow.
Pictures of the set up would be really useful.
 

hooktonboy

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( I am assuming she's RH archer)

Was it/is it possible to set up the new button identical to the previous one? Or did you already have or suspect tuning problems?

What does arrow position look like at centre shot? Is the arrow tip left of string at all? If so, you could try moving to arrow tip directly in line with string( so move centre shot in a bit and increasing button tension a little to see if you can balance things that way. Arrows do sound a bit weak and you may be getting contact but the groups don't sound bad (are they much worse now than they were before you changed the button?)

What does arrow flight look like?

Has anything else changed - especially brace height?

Also (rather like Jerry's suggestion) if using a Beiter clicker try a thinner 0.2 blade as it may not compress the button.
 
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