Weight question


New member
Hi all,
Forgive the simple question (and I know there's probably alot of variables), but generally what sort of poundage compound do you require to still be able to shoot 90m/100yd with? Just if I get a 40-50 bow, I want to know if I need to keep my expectations in check a little.


New member
i have a hoyt contender 26" draw at 48lb and i can hit 100/90 with no problem and i still have some room on my sight to drop my scope down. but i also havent moved it in


New member
As a new dark side convertee, my idea is to start in the low forties and work upwards, so that sounds promising (bow IBO speed dependant I guess too).
Thanks, much appreciated.


Oddly, the poundage isn't always the issue, or the arrow speed. I friend is National Clout record holder and has managed a 6 clout end at 180 yards with under 50lb and very heavy arrows.
How? He draws lower than the jaw for a reference. The case here is where does the peep go and what sort of hand to face reference that gives. If you imagine your recurve with an extra thickness added to the platform on your tab, naturally the bow will shoot further for a given sight setting. So it is with the peep position, a few mm higher will give more distance. In turn this means the drawing hand will have to be lower which may not suit your expectation.
On mine I have one standard release hand position for most distances and that is jaw between the index & 2nd knuckle. At 100, the sight is lower and the peep isn't so well lined up so I have to bring the draw down half a knuckle. Doesn't cause me any problens at all.


New member
That makes sense. I raised my platform tab a few mm to give me some more room at 100yds on my sight mark.


Set your peep height for 70 m and it will be ok for the other distances unless you have issues reaching 90 m

My daughter shoots 70 m no problem with a Hoyt Selena (slowish compound) at 34lb 25" DL

courtesy of moose on the loose


New member
Set your peep height for 70 m and it will be ok for the other distances unless you have issues reaching 90 m...

Hi Si
Not sure I agree with Moose... sorry Moose - no offense. Although what Moose says will probably get the job done, I agree more with lbp121 above. I think the effects on arrow cast in order of priority are:
1. Distance from nock point to peep.
2. Draw weight.
3. Draw length.
4. Cam selection (hard/soft)
5. Arrow weight/fletch drag, or excessive spin.
6. Sight extension.

1,2 and 3 are driven by body geometry. 4,5 and 6 are equipment selection variables.

RE. 1,2 and 3... After ensuring you are drawing a bow within your body's ability and at the correct draw length, the requirement first should be to get a good comfortable, repeatable anchor. This may be high or low but it needs to ensure good upperbody geometry and draw force alignment. This will dictate your peep position. Draw the bow with your eyes closed and anchor. My preference is to jam the 2nd knuckle of my little finger (palm out) under my ear as it gives a solid anchor without floating around on the side of my face. Open your eyes and the peep should be directly in front of your eye. This gives me a 175mm peep to nocking point distance. On a 50lb soft cam compound with 29.5"ACCs I can easily hit 90m with my sight 3/4 extended.
It is better to start within your 'draw weight' ability and shoot shorter distances while building up your ability to draw a higher weight, than to over stress your body. But most important is you train from the start with good technique!
Re 4,5 and 6... these pretty much come down to trial and error as there are numerous permutations, but obviously light arrows, minimal spin (higher speed arrows need less spin) and bring in the sight bar to increase cast.

Good shooting


New member
When my friends wife reached 65 she went to compound (she was a MB recurve archer).
She was a tiny lady and could manage a 30lb compound.
80yards was reached with ease.
Don't worry, with a 40-50 compound,you will reach 100 yards with no problem.


New member
Hi Si
Not sure I agree with Moose... sorry Moose - no offense. Although what Moose says will probably get the job done,
What Moose is saying is correct in so far as you need to pick a distance to base your peep setting on. You can't just open your eyes, line it up and go. It will be right for wherever you have the sight at the time but will be a compromise in terms of anchor point at all the other sight positions.

Most people find 70 a good starting position. I find that makes me a bit floaty at 90 so I set mine a bit tighter. Id rather be solid at 90 and a bit compromised at 30 as I'll lose less points that way. If I'm only shooting one distance then I'll set it for that distance obviously.

How much of a compromise you'll have to make will depend on the speed of the bow and how far the peep is from your eye. A slow bow with a tiny string angle being the worst, in my experience.

With all this in mind, despite having a 30" draw and shooting 60lbs, I can sometimes struggle to get a good sight mark for 90m with some bows, whilst maintaining good form.

As with everything in this game it's never black and white :)


New member
What Moose is saying is correct in sofar as you need to pick a distance to base your peep setting on.
Not sure why James has quoted me here. If he is supporting Moose he should quote Moose. If he is questioning my reference to eye peep alignment then his inference is wrong as I never said " open your eyes, line it up and go".

Problem is to follow Moose's or James's advice you will need a 70m sight mark. I'm guessing you don't have one, and probably will not have one until you have a reasonable peep setting and good anchor. But as Nightimer said... you will probably be fine, just don't over bow yourself or use a crappy anchor just to reach 100yds. It will come.

Good shooting



New member
If you are a grown male don't buy a 40-50lb bow unless you have a shoulder issue. The peak weight on a compound is not much of an issue. The holding weight is more important.
90% of adults will be fine with a 50-60lb bow to start with. They all wind down under 50lb. Most high end bows will go down to 45#.
Any anyone who says "oh yes but they group better at their maximum" is talking rubbish.


New member
I'm swapping from recurve as I have a shoulder issue. :-}
Anyway, I'll be trying some different bows to gauge the weight I'll be comfortable with.


New member
Went to my local pro shop and was trying a Supra set at 50# and i was really amazed at how good it felt (no shoulder twinges or anything either!). I was sure that it would be too much, but I really think now I need. 50-60 bow.