Pressure Button Wrong button pressure

If the button pressure is wrong which is the lesser evil?


  • Total voters
    51

LineCutter

Active member
Granted, there are several schools of thought as to how to choose a button pressure/spring tension but...

If your button pressure were to be set wrong what would be least disadvantageous to your groups
 
When playing about during tuning, I found that having my button tuned so that the bare shafts grouped to the left (Stiff for R/H archer), gave a better group. Even better than when the bare & fletched arrows grouped together. Best grouping of all was when the bare shafts grouped slightly low & left (Stiff button/high nocking point).
Since then I've read / heard confirmation of this in M. Frangilli's book & Jay Barrs video.
 

King Custard

New member
In the case of those with 'fine form' I understand that 'pressure button tuning' can reduce group size considerably...I'd take that to mean that either/both too weak or too stiff would be a disadvantage.

for the rest of us....
too weak.. and a sloppy release can/will bottom out the button - even allowing the arrow to collide with the riser..

too stiff will would give you no more than groupings directly relative to your form - i.e. with no dampenning from the spring effect masking variances in release.

If I had to choose a poor pressure setting then, from too weak or too stiff....I'd go with too stiff.....and work on the form until groupings improve.

I'd far rather have it 'right' though...giving me the best chance of a 'decent score'
 

madmac

Active member
too weak possible bottoming out of button, my best groupings are low left bareshaft.:footinmou
 
J

John (OSF)

Guest
Adjustments of spring pressure and button in/out position are governed by the results of the other things you do during tuning. Though, slightly stiff acting arrows usually produce better groups better than slightly weak...but some people can shoot anything well :) You can usually get away with just about anything indoors (apart from really daft setups), it's only when shooting the different distances outdoors that the 'badly' tuned/matched equipment causes major problems

imo More problems than can be easily dealt with are created by archers that fall into the trap of trying to 'tune' their way out of their 'dodgey form' rather than putting in the effort to get the basics right. As a result they can end up in a loop that they can't easily escape on their own

sorry got a bit off topic there
 

LineCutter

Active member
I completely agree John :)

I've also come to the conclusion that you can view tuning as exactly that - an attempt to get the whole system to the first harmonic. Which means that I can use the 2nd harmonic to explain the "good tune when shooting well, but a shotgun with poor form".

Actually, that's off topic too!

In an attempt to get on topic, Jay Barrs is left handed which makes his bare shaft weak if it's left of the group.
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
Plunger too weak can lead as previously mentioned to it bottoming out (compressing so far in that the arrow will hit the housing) "clicker bounce" the actual pressure of the clicker compressing the plunger when the clicker is activated the arrow is propelled away from the button. I've seen buttons backed off so much that the spring has no compression at all and the plunger can rattle in the housing, if you need to reduce the pressure to this extent and can't take measures such as getting stiffer arrows, lowering bow weight, reducing pile weight etc, all you need do is move the housing in a bit and increase the spring tension, you will get a similar launch angle but without the undisirable effects mentioned above. Jay Barrs sets up like McKinney nock high and stiff. (yes I voted in the wrong box read the words in the question but not necessarily
in the right order)
 
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