Is 30lbs enough?

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Dhansak

Member
Hi All

Am seriously contemplating getting a Bucktrail Antelope for my new adventure discovering field archery. Still need to find a local shop to try first if I can though!

As I am still working up the limb weight developing my form in target, I'm not sure what I'll end up pulling. I'll save my accuracy angst for target archery but want to just have fun with recently discovered field archery. With this is mind - what is the minimum useful weight for this type of bow (60" - looking for a shorter beast than my 68" target recurve) on field courses. I doubt if I'll ever enter any competitions - just want to have a fair crack at your average field course (if there is such a thing as average!) FYI my target draw (anchor to chin is 28") hence a bit longer when I anchor to cheekbone in field. Plan to use only wooden arrows.

Decades ago used to shoot target at 40lbs; these days not a whippersnapper any more - also have whiny shoulders so have to be careful to get everything right so there is no impact. The plan is to try and achieve my goals with a light a draw as is feasible (in target and field). The antelope starts at 25lbs but haven't seen it available - but it is in stock at 30lbs and above.

So what do you reckon a sensible minimum would be? Thanks.
 
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Black Sun

Member
30# should be fine, I know a few people who shoot around that. Most field targets (NFAS at any rate) will be anywhere between 10-50yrds and 30# will get those distances reasonably easily. You might occasionally have issues with twigs etc getting in the way at the longer distances as you'll have to aim a little higher than heavier poundage bows but that should be uncommon. There are courses that have longer distanced targets but unless it goes much past 70-80yrds you should still be able to hit target. This assumes you're not using heavy arrows.... I'm assuming you'll use 5/16 cedar shafts? If so those should be OK, although it might also be worth looking at shafts made of sitka spruce as they are a bit lighter than cedar. If you are only using woodies I would be inclined not to go lower than 30#, I do have a friend who uses a 26# bow but she is shooting aluminium arrows which are lighter in weight than wooden arrows.

Hope that helps!

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ozzy1977

Member
I started with a 35# ragim wolf, whilst this is a nice bow and over shorter distances fine I struggled on longer shots and having to thread the arrow through the undergrowth to get the distance, since upping the power to 45# (Bear Grizzly) find it much easier to get the long shots.
 
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Dhansak

Member
Thanks Black Sun and Ozzy :)

Thanks for highlighting the practical benefits of the higher weight draw - hadn't thought of that element (twig avoidance) at all! - but am a bit twitchy about pushing my dodgy shoulders too far and ending up not being able to shoot. I may be able to build up eventually but tbh I really want to be able to buy a field bow as soon as possible. Common sense would dictate that I wait a year developing my target shooting and arrive at my final weight so I know what weight is practical for me in field too. However it looks like common sense may well be overtaken by want-a-bow, want-a-bow, want-a-bow NOW! Sigh... I'm usually so sensible too....


Black Sun - thanks for the good news re the viability of 30lbs generally. Pretty pleased that 70yds is doable :) Yes - you are correct - I am using 5/16 cedar. Thanks for the tip about the sitka spruce - great! Will investigate those for sure.

The Antelope at 30 is looking like my favourite. Hmm the Ragims do look nice too. Really struggling to keep what's left of my sensible head - am in danger of just ordering off the internet lol. I never do that without trying first ... must resist ... Will go off and do something practical and hope the enthusiasm tsunami calms down a bit!

Thanks again!
 
Simon Banks

Simon Banks

Active member
The beauty with lower poundage is you can use thiner arrows.. And thus the go further... Carol Archery does skinny piles and shafts..
 
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Dhansak

Member
Thanks Simon - will have a look there too :)

Got temporarily distracted by bamboo arrows but am coming back round to something simpler again for my first build...
 
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Black Sun

Member
Heh, Dhansak..... I think a lot of us get the whole 'must have bow...... Must have it now!' thing..... I just got myself another one (second hand Blackbrook hunter) recently..... I so don't need it but it looks lovely :)
However yes if your shoulder is twitchy you'd be wise to keep a lower poundage.... There are no prizes for stuffing up your body.
It it's any consolation.... I got my antelope off the internet..... from a certain longbow shop..... constantly worried that I had made a rash decision until I got the bow, not regretted it a day since. Your mileage may vary of course but I don't think you'll be disappointed for a first field bow. I'd be interested to see what you think of it!

Bamboo arrows are however.... something else to think about..... Something I may look into myself.


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blakey

blakey

Active member
Dhansak said:
Plan to use only wooden arrows.

So what do you reckon a sensible minimum would be? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Just wondered what division/discipline you'd be shooting in? If it's Longbow isn't there a minimum bow length? If it's recurve can you not use carbon arrows? Or even aluminium? I shoot low poundage coz of a dodgy shoulder, but I don't use wood. Light arrows go a long way out of a light bow.
 
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Black Sun

Member
The bucktrail Antelope is a recurve blakey..... If we're talking NFAS then yes Dhansak could shoot with aluminium or carbon under barebow category but using wooden arrows will put him in hunting tackle category. I believe it's a personal choice on Dhansaks part but in essence there's nothing stopping him shooting with carbons or ali's.

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blakey

blakey

Active member
Dhansak said:
Thanks Simon - will have a look there too :)

Got temporarily distracted by bamboo arrows but am coming back round to something simpler again for my first build...
Click to expand...
I was very impressed by bamboo arrows when I tried some off Longbow Mark I think it was. They are so much stronger than woods. Still a dam sight easier to shoot carbons tho.
 
English Bowman

English Bowman

Well-known member
The best advice I can give you is to shoot a weight that you are comfortable with. There is no point in risking injury at worse, or struggling to hold and aim well. If your bow is too heavy not only will you not hit the long shots, but you won't control it and won't hit the short shots either. If you have a bow that's too light you can control it and may struggle to hit the long stuff but at least you'll make up points on the short stuff. If there is doubt go for a lighter bow.
 
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Dhansak

Member
Thanks all for the solid help!

I will be careful to build up very slowly weight-wise - don't want to damage my chances of shooting long term. If it turns out that I have to stick to a light draw then it's still good; I'll enjoy shooting at whatever distance life allows :)

I have just joined an NFAS club - so thank you Black Sun for clarifying which class the Antelope with wood arrows would be! Prior to this, I had looked through the NFAS and EFAA rules re bow/shooting classes and got myself into a thorough tangle. Initially I thought I would go for as full a change as possible from target archery (which I will still do) e.g. no sights, buttons or stabilizer; wooden arrows; face walking and string walking; Mediterranean or 3 below loose. Total freedom I thought! - then I started reading the rules... yikes.

After I calmed down (!) I had a think about what I wanted. With very limited field shooting experience, I think it will include:

-stripped down equipment (relative to target) and different arrows - hence wooden

-cheekbone anchor (forget string walking and face walking) - think one anchor will help learn instinctive mode (just a dream! - the chances of me having enough time to shoot enough arrows to get far enough with that are a touch slim...)

- not sure about about loose method - guess I will just stick with the one that enables me to "fit in" with a particular style definition that covers the above preferences...

On the other hand - does anyone care how you shoot if it's not a competition? (prob won't be entering any - my mind set is competing against myself rather than against anyone else)


On to more drooling over internet bows :)
 
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Black Sun

Member
Just to add to the additions....
Cheekbone anchor can lead to inconsistent drawlengths and that is something you really want to avoid (especially as you're not using sights and all the target kit! ). I'd only do a cheek anchor if you have a consistent spot you can pull to. Anchoring first or middle finger to the corner of the mouth tends to be more consistent in my experience. But as with everything in this game, go with what works for you.
Loose.... As Ozzy says HT in NFAS is Mediterranean loose only
Does anyone care..... If you're not entering competitively then probably not as long as you're safe..... But I guarantee someone will likely comment on your shooting style if it's not standard for your class. As for entering competitions...... Think again about that, it's immense fun (even though I've not had chance to do any myself this year yet :-(). Most folk in NFAS are only competing against themselves and entering competitively is a measure of how well YOU are doing, if you win a medal too then that's great but it's not the be all and end all. Obviously some do go in for the scores and you'll find them getting the medals more often than not but a large proportion of NFAS archers go for the 'friendly', 'can you hit it or can't you' side

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Dhansak

Member
Thanks all - I did find the the bow/arrow/technique classifications for the different Associations a bit of a chunk to digest!

Black Sun - thanks for your input re anchoring; will try the corner-of-mouth approach too. Am just finally finding my feet in Target and not even out of nappies in Field so all comments are welcome. Will give anything a try as long as it feels different to target - don't want to confuse my subconscious too much!

I won't dismiss competition shooting then - if it's a fun atmosphere I'll consider it in the future; was just concerned it might be a bit a serious and intense - need a lighter weight to counterbalance the intensity of target...

Will let you know when I get the Bucktrail. We just decided to get married after 17 years together - wedding will be in about 8 weeks so got sidetracked lol. Also got distracted by planning a home mini-range in the garage - about 3m. Will be getting back-netting and a bag target - just need to clear years worth of boxes of stuff first.... busy, busy!
 
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