Finally finished my bow!

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djthompson

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It's taken a while (to find the time really); but I've tillered my ELB to around 35lb @ 29# draw. I'd like it to be a little stronger; but considering it is my first bow, I am very pleased. Shot a dozen arrows with the temporary nocks :)

It's a self lemonwood bow. I've stuck on some horn nocks; just need to finish the bow. Should i varnish or wax?

Would a couple of coats of varnish improve cast etc?

Thanks for all the advice over the last 12 months; look forward to shooting it!

Dave
 
Little Miss Purple

Little Miss Purple

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Where are the pictures??????

My bow was waxed, which I preferred the look and feel of, I got horn nocks put on and the bow came back varnished. I have only shot the bow once and was utterly rubbish - this may not mean anything though and I know nothing about longbows :cheerful:
 
Kae

Kae

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If the bow is only for occasional use, then I'd suggest varnishing.
Helps keep the moisture in the wood, so reduces the risk of it breaking.

Pictures needed!


Kae.
 
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dtalbot

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The way I've been told for oiling by some bowyers far better than me is:

Once a day for a week
Once a week for the next month
Once a month for the next year
And once a year for life

Seems to result in a good tough finish
 
steve58

steve58

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Kae said:
If the bow is only for occasional use, then I'd suggest varnishing.
Helps keep the moisture in the wood, so reduces the risk of it breaking.


Kae.
Click to expand...
Interestingly a number of people of far more experience than me have told me that to varnish arrows dries the wood out because it can't breathe... I always thought that sounded a bit suspect...
 
Kae

Kae

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American Shoot
steve58 said:
Interestingly a number of people of far more experience than me have told me that to varnish arrows dries the wood out because it can't breathe... I always thought that sounded a bit suspect...
Click to expand...
I'm no expert (only been shooting longbow 5 years) but the way I look at it is that a nice bendy piece of wood, covered in sealant (such as varnish) will stay nice and bendy. However, a nice bendy piece of wood kept in a dry place (no-one keeps their bows outside?) will dry out and go brittle.
Just look at table tops for example. Sealed wood stays flat and even, unsealed wood splits. (one reason why you always paint the ends of bow staves in pva glue when you are seasoning them, so they don't dry out too quickly - but that's a different job altogether).

But that's just my experience.

Kae.
 
laminatekid

laminatekid

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Kae said:
I'm no expert (only been shooting longbow 5 years) but the way I look at it is that a nice bendy piece of wood, covered in sealant (such as varnish) will stay nice and bendy. However, a nice bendy piece of wood kept in a dry place (no-one keeps their bows outside?) will dry out and go brittle.
Just look at table tops for example. Sealed wood stays flat and even, unsealed wood splits. (one reason why you always paint the ends of bow staves in pva glue when you are seasoning them, so they don't dry out too quickly - but that's a different job altogether).

But that's just my experience.

Kae.
Click to expand...
must admit I agree, if you look at bows from bickerstaffe they are all finished in rustins plastic coating and Richard head refuses to make bows with anything other than a varnish finish both these guys know there bows.
 
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djthompson

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The bow has had 4 coats of Danish Oil, the first three were applied liberally, then the excess wiped off after 10 min. After 6 hrs drying the coat has been lightly wire wooled, and wiped free of dust for a futher oiling. The last coat of oil was a light coat, and left to dry. Then a light rub with a lint free cloth.

The result (pictures to follow soon I promise) is fantastic. A high satin finish, beautiful colour (it was a dye free oil), and glass like smoothness.

I've used varnish and beeswax frequently on wood, but this is my first occasion with Danish Oil.

It is very easy to use indeed, and the finish is like a very thin varnish. I intend to build up the oil barrier by giving the bow the occasional light application of oil.

The bow weight seems to have improved a bit too (perhaps with the horn nocks added, and a chance for the bow to rest. I was firing it after it had been tillered 50 times at each inch!

I'd say it's at least 40lb, which I'm pleased with.

It's 75.5" from nock (unbraced) to nock, tillered to 29".

This is one of three lemonwood staves I cut from a block; and it has two knots in it. I started with this one as I'd heard you are likely to break your first bow (or end up with a weakling); so I figured not to use the best of my wood to start.

Over time (when I don't have a list of DIY jobs as long as my arm), I'll hope to make another. The next will have an ash back glued on, and at maybe tillered for 60lb.

Pics will follow in the next day or too.

D
 
FlightyRachel

FlightyRachel

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Looks great, Dave, I like the finish that oil has given. :)

A few weekends ago I was shooting with a man who was bringing out the bow he'd made for its first ever shoot! It must be a great feeling! Sadly I appear to lack the patience even to make arrows, they are driving me nuts!!! :faint:
 
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djthompson

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Thanks for your message Flighty Rachel;

LOL, feels good; but there is a stronger "please don't break" feeling running in the background!!!

It's taken about 4 days to make, over 9 months. with lots of thinking time ;-)

Cheers, Dave
 
clickerati

clickerati

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Your bow is really lovely, dj, but I'm really impressed with how nice the grip looks. Fancy redoing the grip on mine? I've been meaning to redo it in purple leather, but I'm too chicken to try.
 
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djthompson

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Hi there, LOL the grip too a while to get right. It's leather tennis tape bound really tight around the bow, then trimmed at the end and glued down with (shock horror) super glue!

Here's the source of the tape:

http://www.vantagetennis.com/cat/browse/grips.html

The tape is sticky; but not THAT sticky!

a shaped piece of pine, spot glued to the back is under the leather strapping.

Cheers, Dave
 
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