Spigarelli Z/T arrow rest

acehero

New member
Whats the point of the two silver screws on the back? If you tighten them up it just stops the rest returning to its starting position after the shot, and loosening them makes no difference as long as the 2 on the magnet are tight. One of the silver ones fell out on me today. They just seem like a nuisance but maybe I'm missing the point?
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
they are a recent addition to the spiga rest along with the choke screw to weaken the magnetic effect, I assume the screws you mention are there to form some sort of breaking or slowing to the arms reaction. I have recently just dabbed mine with a spot of hair lacquer to ensure they don't come undone whatever they are "actually" used for
 
The 2 silver screws are pich bolts. There is a very fine slit which can be closed up by screwing these screws in to make the arm movement slower. If they are loose it is ok as they will do no harm.
Choke screw? Do you mean the screw that limits the initial in out position?
 

Robert

New member
Ironman
I've recently got a "Sebastian Flute" magnetic rest which looks strikingly similar to the spig rest you have been describing. Sadly it came with no instructions at all (not even french like the riser...)



I am a little confused. Maybe it was the midnight oil being burnt when I attached it to my bow but the only way i could see of adjusting the vertical position of the arm is to bend it with some pliers. The magnetic choke screw works OK.
I am changing from a GM (with patented verta tune thingummy) to the flute riser if that helps to explain my numpty knowledge base and I really want to actually shoot it tonight !
 

Murray

Well-known member
Ironman
American Shoot
AIUK Saviour
Hoyt super rest is good! (Once you cut off the hook). The only downside is the arm isn't very adjustable, and also doesn't move out of the way if struck.

The simple flipper rests are adjustable (with a bit of wire bending) and reliable (IMO). I've never broken a W&W flipper rest, but I killed a couple of my old yamaha flip II rests (such a shame as they were otherwise excellent).

The cheap ukranian flip rests you can get from various sources are also excellent - cheap, simple, solid, end of. But I'm off topic :) Apologies! :duck:

p.s. I've seen a few excellent Korean archers using the Hoyt super rest...
p.p.s. I did have a wraparound rest once... I gave it away :)
 

King Custard

New member
I'm happy with the Spig ZT with a couple of mods.

first to secure all screws from vibrating out into the grass- and having the 'choke' or magnetic-i-city, of the arm's return set to minimal, and the pinch bolts loose (but fixed to avoid loss)

The arm of my rests looks nothing like how they come in the packet!
Bent with pliers, the arm comes out of the bottom of the block as usual -but takes a 45 degree up- to just fractionally above plunger tip bottom...and then takes a slightly downhill turn almost at the same angle as the arrow to avoid the flexing arrow being disturbed by catching , and having to mount over the more usual upturned or upward pointing arrow-rest-arm.
And of course the 'hook' is cut off.

This allows for complete non-interference from the rest at release as the first few inches of accelerating arrow push the arm out of the way. As the arrow builds up speed and begins to lift off of the rest it is now central on the button plunger- any flexing of the arrow has nothing other than the plunger to alter is course.

I'll try to post pictures.

But dont try this if you have a tendency to cant your bow-- the arrow will fall off as you pull through the clicker.
 

buzz lite beer

Well-known member
I've recently got a "Sebastian Flute" magnetic rest which looks strikingly similar to the spig rest you have been describing. Sadly it came with no instructions at all (not even french like the riser...)



I am a little confused. Maybe it was the midnight oil being burnt when I attached it to my bow but the only way i could see of adjusting the vertical position of the arm is to bend it with some pliers. The magnetic choke screw works OK.
I am changing from a GM (with patented verta tune thingummy) to the flute riser if that helps to explain my numpty knowledge base and I really want to actually shoot it tonight !
there should be a tiny Allen screw on the silver disc that sits between the two "shiny screws" as well as the larger Allen bolt that is attracted to the magnet, loosen these off and you should get a fair amount of up and down movement of the wire arm.
 

ZolcsiBB

New member
Hoyt super rest is good! (Once you cut off the hook). The only downside is the arm isn't very adjustable, and also doesn't move out of the way if struck.
How can you hit the arm with the fletchnigs? Bad release? What is the reason of the magnetic arm? On the Beiter video the arrow leaves the rest just in a moment after the release and doesn't touch it again...
 

Murray

Well-known member
Ironman
American Shoot
AIUK Saviour
Depends on the quality of the archer doing the shooting, finger pressures, brace height, nock height, etc. etc. etc.

Beiter video are clean shots by archers who are experts in their field, not everyone is that good :) Which is why not everyone got on with the beiter rest, and some found themselves wearing a groove in it.
 

eastdesign

New member
i would love to see some pics if you have any king custard, im currently on a love hate relationship with the spig z/t and wanting to do some mods on it to try and improve it, but maybe i need improving also!!


I'm happy with the Spig ZT with a couple of mods.

first to secure all screws from vibrating out into the grass- and having the 'choke' or magnetic-i-city, of the arm's return set to minimal, and the pinch bolts loose (but fixed to avoid loss)

The arm of my rests looks nothing like how they come in the packet!
Bent with pliers, the arm comes out of the bottom of the block as usual -but takes a 45 degree up- to just fractionally above plunger tip bottom...and then takes a slightly downhill turn almost at the same angle as the arrow to avoid the flexing arrow being disturbed by catching , and having to mount over the more usual upturned or upward pointing arrow-rest-arm.
And of course the 'hook' is cut off.

This allows for complete non-interference from the rest at release as the first few inches of accelerating arrow push the arm out of the way. As the arrow builds up speed and begins to lift off of the rest it is now central on the button plunger- any flexing of the arrow has nothing other than the plunger to alter is course.

I'll try to post pictures.

But dont try this if you have a tendency to cant your bow-- the arrow will fall off as you pull through the clicker.
 

MikeD

New member
As I said to someone last night, who is going to a Trophy Taker rest after problems with a Spigarelli drop away rest:

"Name me 5 famous Italian Engineers"

And DaVinci doesn't count 'cos he did make many of his designs and lots of them could never work but looked pretty on paper. Much like Spigarelli rests really :raspberry

By the way just in case you didn't notice I really do not like Spigarelli drop away rests. Worst archery purchase I ever made.
 
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