Why shoot Easton X10's for compound and how to cut them?

T101

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Noticed a few Pro's, Reo wilde eg, seem to prefer the X10 over the Pro tour. Any idea why, is there a good reason?

I'm considering them as it gives me more options when buying used, but have no clue how much to cut off them for a compound. Any help here would be appreciated. How are they cut at factory, even from both ends?

spec 330 IBO bow, 28" draw, around 54lbs 26 3/4" - 27 1/4" arrow. so 450,500?:whiskey:
 

bimble

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Probably because they score the odd point more with the X10 over the Pro Tour. That is generally how the Pros pick their equipment. Either that or they're just working their way through old sets that are in the wardrobe!! ;) Wasn't it with the Pro Tours that Reo shot his 150??

450/500 looks to be right according to the charts. Personally I prefer my 450's, especially with heavy points.

450's have a stock length of 33/75", so to get down to 27" you want to lose 6.75", and as the maximum trim from the front is 5.5" you're going to be taking nearly 2" from the back anyway.

Then again, sticking with Reo, have you noticed that he has his arrows a couple inches long...?? ;)
 

wingate_52

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I shoot 450 spine X10 arrows. 58# Elite XLR bow. 27 1/2" arrow with 120gn tungsten points, Beiter Hunter pin nocks, Bohning X Vanes shield cut 1.75" long. I cut 30mm off the rear of the shaft.
I shall soon be making a set with 4" Bohning Killer Vanes and St Steel 120 gn points to try indoors against my X Busters which are taking some wear and tear.
 

T101

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Probably because they score the odd point more with the X10 over the Pro Tour. That is generally how the Pros pick their equipment. Either that or they're just working their way through old sets that are in the wardrobe!! ;) Wasn't it with the Pro Tours that Reo shot his 150??

450/500 looks to be right according to the charts. Personally I prefer my 450's, especially with heavy points.

450's have a stock length of 33/75", so to get down to 27" you want to lose 6.75", and as the maximum trim from the front is 5.5" you're going to be taking nearly 2" from the back anyway.

Then again, sticking with Reo, have you noticed that he has his arrows a couple inches long...?? ;)

well maybe thats the reason! at first i remembered that x10 drifts more than PT so why use them?, but when i checked (thank you james park) its only by 1.4%, which say on a 3" drift equates to only about 1mm i think.

so your saying cut the advised max of the front and then the rest off back. i follow. so if someone ordered them @say 28" for recurve they would have had about 1" of the back, with the rest off front, important if i buy used.?
 

bimble

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Remember that James Park did those test (at least I think he did) for 90 or 70m. Most of the big name internationals will be setting their outdoor set-ups for 50m. So if an arrow was suffering most at the last 20m, it might do considerably better over the shorter rounds that are now shot.

Well, I was more saying that to get down to your desired arrow length you're going to have to cut from the back anyway. A minimum of whatever was left once removing the maximum allowed from the front. I would advise checking with the person if you're buying second hand. They may of done something like 3" from both ends... I once bought a set of ACE's in Canada and had to have them cut down so they fitted in my bag. It wasn't for quite a few months later when someone pointed out they had it all cut from the back!!

well maybe thats the reason! at first i remembered that x10 drifts more than PT so why use them?, but when i checked (thank you james park) its only by 1.4%, which say on a 3" drift equates to only about 1mm i think.

so your saying cut the advised max of the front and then the rest off back. i follow. so if someone ordered them @say 28" for recurve they would have had about 1" of the back, with the rest off front, important if i buy used.?
 

buzz lite beer

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Maybe he shoots occasionally into straw and doesn't like knacking so many Protours that he has gone to the trouble of fletching and no doubt weight matched,
X10's more robust in straw than Protours :)
 

bimble

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That might explain for those with the long draw lengths/high poundages. But using the example of Reo Wilde in the opening post, he is presumably not using an overly stiff arrow but one closer to correct spine...



Easton shaft selector suggests something closer to a 500 would be best with those specs...

Ignore this post ! someone's already given this answer !

LOL!!! you changed your post whilst I was writing mine!! ;)
 

T101

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suprised to see only 50lbs draw weight for Reo, even if only for 50m or indoor.

That might explain for those with the long draw lengths/high poundages. But using the example of Reo Wilde in the opening post, he is presumably not using an overly stiff arrow but one closer to correct spine...



Easton shaft selector suggests something closer to a 500 would be best with those specs...




LOL!!! you changed your post whilst I was writing mine!! ;)
 

bimble

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So was I... on a different Archery Forum I asked if this was possibly a typo, but apparently not... and not only that, he's turned it UP to 50lbs this year from ~47 (I think).... just goes to shot that a damned good shot is going in the middle... ;)

(the photo was from the Shanghai World Cup this year)

suprised to see only 50lbs draw weight for Reo, even if only for 50m or indoor.
 

T101

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I dropped my poundage down to 55lbs (shot it at 58-60 in past) for indoor season and like it so much plan to keep it for outside too. figured i'd wind down until i found the sweet spot, but once it got below 55lbs it just went all wrong, unstable with wild shots on release. guess the holding weight and/or small draw length increase was cause.

have got it on 75% let off, so maybe i would need 65% on any lower poundages. I can definately see some mileage in the lower draw weight though.
 

Marcus26

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It's a common misconception that high poundage is better, or that to be able to compete you MUST shoot 60lb. Holding weight is much more important than peak weight.
 

T101

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Buzz, yeh but an expensive fad, because remember compounds only shoot best at max limb poundage, so most will have to change their limbs/bows to get 50lbs peak maxed out ;0)

Marcus, whats your opinion on spine, poundage will be 55lbs @27", 330 IBO, i'm thinking PT 470. but i like to chop em down gradually to keep the set alive after damage, (26 1/4") which would put them into 520 territory. i have 470's to try but no 520's?
 
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